Cycling the beautiful Mosel River



Multi-modal mobility... next the boat

Submitted by mag on Mon, 07/22/2019 - 01:04

We ditched our van in Offenburg a few days ago and have been enjoying being car-free again and exploring this region by bike. We stayed first at a lovely upstairs apartment in a quiet village north of Offenburg -  a nice balcony and great views from both sides.  The owners are a very nice German couple who have lived in North Carolina.

Camping Les Trois Chateaux Eguisheim

Submitted by mag on Fri, 07/19/2019 - 03:25

We needed to rest a few days so we got a camping cabin near Eguisheim to catch up on sleep, correspondence, planning,  posts, laundry, and organizing.  And to eat some high-veg home cooking for a change.  Eguisheim is a small ancient wine village built in several concentric circles as the town grew with interesting narrow alleys and lots of public fountains.  Nearly all the towns in Alsace end in "heim"  - somebody's home showing the strong German heritage.  During our stay we enjoyed lots of festivals, wine tastings, vineyard rides to other wine villages and riding into Colmar for lunch.  


Submitted by mag on Fri, 07/12/2019 - 02:11

The hardest part of posting about our idyllic, too short, two night stay in Annecy is picking the photos!  We stumbled on Annecy quite by accident just picking what looked like a nice place on the map (how did we ever travel before Google?) and booking what looked like a good bikable location at the apartment hotel Villa due Port.  Then later Willy and Gert and their friends Yvonne and Pieke told us Annecy was a wonderful place and we should try to stay longer, so we booked a second night - we were lucky to get the same hotel but had to move to a different room - and they had no more rooms

Claviers with Willy and Gert

Submitted by mag on Thu, 07/11/2019 - 05:02

This post is taking some time to write, because it has been so special and had such a profound impact on us.  Since 2001 we have been hearing from our dear Dutch friends Willy and Gert Rietveld about their special place and it's been one of our life-goals to see and experience it for ourselves.  We met Willy and Gert in 1981 in the Maldives - off the coast of India when we were on a winding path back to the US after 3 years working in Munich. Both Willy and Gert were long-term KLM professionals as purser and pilot so they've always been able to travel everywhere and have taken full advantag

Lacoste - Perched Villages of the Luberon

Submitted by mag on Wed, 07/10/2019 - 02:57

After Saintes Maries, we landed in Lacoste more by accident than design.  We wanted to escape the heat  by getting up in the mountains and didn't have a lot of time to research options. I remembered the name Lacoste because Maggie LaCoste (who publishes the great website ) mentioned it so the name was stuck in my mind. Then I found a pleasant looking airbnb cottage with a great pool, so that cinched the deal. 

Les Saintes Maries de la Mer

Submitted by mag on Sat, 07/06/2019 - 00:45

We spent 5 days in Saintes Maries de la Mer in the Camargue - the Rhone delta where the great river reaches the Mediterranean.  It's a land with a kind of stark, desolate beauty. Once the tourists left around midnight Sunday night it reverted from "Beach Party Central" to a quiet historic village. 

Les Saintes Maries De La Mer

Submitted by mag on Mon, 07/01/2019 - 02:50

On Monday the weather was much cooler.  We rode into town looking for the market but it turned out it was Tuesday, not Monday as the Tourist office said so we went to Intermarche and back for breakfast and then headed out for our ride.   We planned on about a 40 km loop ride - the only ride recommended by the tourism office that did not require fat tires -  with a ferry across the Petite Rhone near the beginning. The crushing weight of the heat combined with the overwhelming crowds was lifted and it was a beautiful day to be out riding.

Les Saintes via Aigues Mortes

Submitted by mag on Sun, 06/30/2019 - 02:12

On Sunday we packed up and headed for the Camargue (Rhone Delta)  home of sun, beaches, white horses, bulls and crazy bull games.  We were bound for Les Saintes Maries De La Mer and didn't want to arrive too much before check in time, so we stopped off at the ancient walled city of Aigues Mortes. The name means Dead Waters - it's in the middle of a huge desolate salt marsh.  Like Sommories a walled city and of course HOT!

Sommieres Market Day

Submitted by mag on Sat, 06/29/2019 - 01:50

Saturday was a few degrees cooler... only 109 not 112 like Friday.  The market was amazing - there's no really big square in Sommieres, just miles of narrow alleys, so the huge number of vendors who converged on the town were stretched out all along the rabbit warrens.  The biggest square is below street level and completely surrounded by buildings so it was like a frying pan.  We bought a few veggies, sunglasses and a rotis poulet - which with salad and veggies made a great lunch and dinner.  Pity the grill-man...