September 2013

Boppard

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Rhine from the topRhine 2 - Boppard 9/2/13 Monday

The breakfast was really delightful, very attractively presented in a lovely dining room filled with antiques, We enjoyed our tower room so much we decided to stay another night, even though we can’t get wifi in our room. Patty and Bob went on to visit friends of Patty’s in Mainz.

Oberwesel

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Dinner in market squareBoppard to Oberwesel 9/3/13 We were able to get a good internet connection after breakfast. Based on a recommendation from Mike Lyon’s book we decided to splurge on a castle hotel and made a “budget” (relatively speaking) reservation via booking.com at Auf Schoenberg in Oberwesel for Wednesday night.

Oberwesel to Bingen

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9/5 Oberwesel to Bingen We are getting used to the castle life and are now totally spoiled! I woke up during the night and marveled at the sparkling clear views of the Rhine by starlight with its surrounding castles and steady flow of riverboats, but we awoke in the morning to a dense fog. The breakfast was predictably spectacular complete with sekt (German champagne) and delicacies of all kinds.

Schiltach Black Forest

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9/9 Schiltach - 9/11 We caught the train from Neckargemund with no problem in spite of all our catastrophizing. And made the change in Heidelberg for the Black Forest and to Hausach. In fact, our only challenge was just past Hausach when we weren’t sure we were on the right train, and then were further alarmed when about 100 school kids got on, so we were penned in and couldn't get off if we wanted to!

Black Forest to Switzerland

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David and Ann helped us pack our mules and get them up to the street, and then we took off in the rain to catch the train for Konstanz. German trains always run on schedule, so we had no problem getting to Knostanz. Once there we had a little trouble finding our way out of the city and across the border into Switzerland. We had a strong headwind and some rain so the 25 km to Steckborn seemed long.... We were worn out when we finally got to our hotel. Jim thought it was funny I forgot to remove my headgear.

Stein am Rhein and Rheinfalls

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9/13 - 9/15 Stein am Rhein and Rheinfalls We headed out in a chilly mist, but soon this burned off and we began to see spectacular views of this isolated branch of the Bodensee as it narrows down between steep hills to form the Rhine. After some time we arrived in Stein am Rhein, one of those medeival towns that seem to be stuck in the time of 500 years ago. We enjoyed the picturesque plaza with its famous frescos.

Kesswil

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9/15 Stein am Rhein to Kesswil
I had reserved ahead to a B&B in Kesswil. It was rainy so we took the train. This was maybe not the best idea since Swiss trains are super expensive compared to German, but it was a relaxing way to get there and we were able to check in early with a friendly family. After ditching our load we rode on in to Romanshorn to check out the Ferry. We bought supplies at a shop and had a nice picnic overlooking the lake and then a beer at a small marina.

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