August 2015

Inzell ab Donau

Submitted by mag on

Blue DanubeThis could be our best riding day ever – a near-perfect ride with great (but hot!) weather all the way to Inzell. Three large rivers merge at Passau, so from there on it is HUGE with lots of traffic.

We crossed the river on a tiny bike ferry to our stay at Zum heiligen Nikolausslope. It was really hot, so I took a dip in the river to cool off. After dinner, the light on the Danube was perfect, so we got some good pictures of ourselves and the cruise ships heading downstream toward Linz.

Mermaid (aka Nixie or siren) of the Danube
Mermaid (aka Nixie or siren) of the Danube
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
River gets wider at Passau
Second Breakfast!
Second Breakfast!
The Siren or Nixie Rocks of Passau
The Siren or Nixie Rocks of Passau
Big BIG River
Big BIG River
Bike Ferry
Bike Ferry
Bike Ferry
Bike Ferry
Lots of Boats
Lots of Boats
Lots of Boats
Lots of Boats
On the Terrace at Inzell
On the Terrace at Inzell
On the Terrace at Inzell
On the Terrace at Inzell
Blue Danube
Blue Danube
Light on the Blue Danube
Light on the Blue Danube
Blue Danube
Blue Danube
Blue Danube
Blue Danube
My new profile pic on the Blue Danube
My new profile pic on the Blue Danube

Deggendorf to Passau

Submitted by mag on

Charming Bavarian house in PassauFrom Staubing we had a good ride to Deggendorf where we had an excellent stay at the NH Hotel, dinner in the town platz and fabulous breakfast with made-to-order omlettes.

Then on to Passau where we rented a whole house about 6 km West of the town. It was a lovely Bavarian-style house on a steep slope with multiple balconies and terraces, and “wintergardens”.

We spent a day exploring Passau – great architecture but too many people and loads of cruise ships. Patty returned her rental bike and bought an ebike, so she is much happier, although she did have a minor technical glitch right before the bike tunnel on the way out of Passau.

Interesting traffic on the trail
Interesting traffic on the trail
Interesting traffic on the trail
Interesting traffic on the trail
Beached Catamaran on the Danube
Beached Catamaran on the Danube
On the way to Passau
On the way to Passau
Ferry on the way to Passau
Ferry on the way to Passau
Charming Bavarian house in Passau
Charming Bavarian house in Passau
Patty's new bike has to stay indoors
Patty's new bike has to stay indoors
Passau
Passau
Steep slopes in Passau
Steep slopes in Passau
Lots of ships
Lots of ships
Lots of ships
Lots of ships
Technical Glitch leaving Passau
Technical Glitch leaving Passau
Lots of traffic leaving Passau
Lots of traffic leaving Passau

Regensburg, Meeting Old Friends and on to Staubing

Submitted by mag on

Time to moveWe arrived in Regensburg around noon, had a quick lunch, checked into our apartment right near the main square. Our apartment was ultra-modern with every convenience crammed into a tiny space. The plan was to meet up with our friends Bob and Patty tomorrow.This is the third year we've met up with them for part of our journey. I went down to the grocery store in our same block and as I was leaving I heard someone yelling “Maggie” – there they were!

So we actually met up a day early. So we had an entire day to explore Regensburg, and for them to rent bikes, and to have a great dinner at their apartment, which (unlike ours) was very spacious (although the internet left a little to be desired!). We took off together the next day and after a rather strenuous day (especially for them without E-Bikes) made it to Staubing. Our B&B was an aging mansion, complete with moths, but also a lovely backyard terrace. We had dinner in the town square.

Our modern but tiny apartment in Regensburg
Our modern but tiny apartment in Regensburg
Meeting Old Friends Bob and Patty
Meeting Old Friends Bob and Patty
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Regensburg St Peters Cathedral
Trinity Cathedral - one of the oldest protestant churches
Trinity Cathedral - one of the oldest protestant churches
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Bell tower at Trinity Cathedral
Trinity Cathedral 1630
Trinity Cathedral 1630
Trinity Cathedral 1630
Trinity Cathedral 1630
Colorful veggie market in Regensburg
Colorful veggie market in Regensburg
Bob at the sidewheel museum ship
Bob at the sidewheel museum ship
Spacious apartment
Spacious apartment
But cramped internet room!
But cramped internet room!
Dinner and bemusing art
Dinner and bemusing art
bemusing art
bemusing art
Heading out from Regensburg
Heading out from Regensburg
Walhalla - this was the "sane" Ludwig
Walhalla - this was the "sane" Ludwig
Bob & Patty on the Danube
Bob & Patty on the Danube
Jim & Maggie on the Danube
Jim & Maggie on the Danube
Time to move
Time to move
Lunch in ??
Lunch in ??
Mermaid on the Staubing bridge
Mermaid on the Staubing bridge
Charming terrace in at BNB Bredl Staubing
Charming terrace in at BNB Bredl Staubing
Charming terrace in at BNB Bredl Staubing
Charming terrace in at BNB Bredl Staubing
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz
Staubing Ludwigs Platz

Neustadt and Bad Abbach

Submitted by mag on

IngolstadtBaroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster We left Weichering early Sunday morning, and had a pleasant quiet ride through Ingolstadt. We had lunch in Vohburg which has a beautiful piazza with Bavarian maypole, steeple and city gate. The pizza was typical German but the Pils was excellent.

We overnighted at the Hotel Gigl Neustadt, a relatively great value at 70 Eu and nice biergarten. The entire town of Newstadt is under construction – evidently some power-that-be has decided that this area is ripe for restoration. Most of the streets are torn up and being replaced with huge granite stones. In a year this town is going to be a destination. After dinner in the biergarten, we walked around town, taking pictures and admiring the storks.

From Neustadt we had a delightful ride to Weltenberg. All morning we were in “Hop Heaven” with humongous hop plantations everywhere. We had no traffic the entire way and only encountered one other biker – a Brit. We got to the Kloster Weltenburg monastery, which is an extreme example of the excesses of Baroque architecture. The architects were so amused by their sensory overdose they painted themselves into the ceiling and appeared to be having a great laugh at the expense of their patrons.

We had an excellent beer from the oldest monastery brewery in Germany and then a very scenic boat ride through the Donau Gorge to Kelheim. At Kelheim the Rhein to Donoa canal flows into the Donoa, and the river is nivigable from there to the Black Sea.  From Kelheim we rode on to Bad Abbach where we had a very fine and convenient hotel at Parkresidence with an actual kitchen! The owner, Simone was extremely social, ebullient and fluent in at least 6 languages that we heard, greeting everyone with enthusiasm as though they were long lost friends. We loved the hotel, but the town of Bad Abbach was full of rehab facilities and seemed sterile, institutional and not as friendly as some towns.

Ingolstadt
Ingolstadt
Ingolstadt
Ingolstadt
Ingolstadt
Ingolstadt
Traditional lovers' locks on the bridge
Traditional lovers' locks on the bridge at Ingolstadt
Lunch in Vohburg
Lunch in Vohburg
Ice Cream Break in Vohburg
Ice Cream Break in Vohburg
Vohburg
Vohburg
Vohburg
Vohburg
Long and winding limestone road
Long and winding limestone road
Enjoying the Blue Danube
Enjoying the Blue Danube
Storks in Neustadt
Storks in Neustadt
Storks in Neustadt
Storks in Neustadt
Old buildings in Neustadt
Old buildings in Neustadt
New constructin of old piazza in Neustadt
New constructin of old piazza in Neustadt
Leaving Neustadt
Leaving Neustadt
Entire town is under construction
Entire town is under construction
Hop Heaven
Hop Heaven
Hop Heaven
Hop Heaven
Hop Heaven
Hop Heaven
Gotta try out the hunter chair
Gotta try out the hunter chair
Oh Oh - how do I get down?
Oh Oh - how do I get down?
Bike touring German style
Bike touring German style
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Baroque Excess at Weltenburg Kloster
Excellent Weltenburg beer
Excellent Weltenburg beer
Donau Gorge
Donau Gorge
Donau Gorge
Donau Gorge
Donau Gorge
Donau Gorge
Aftr Kelheim lots of ship traffic
Aftr Kelheim lots of ship traffic
Aftr Kelheim lots of ship traffic
Aftr Kelheim lots of ship traffic
Simone showing our charming apartment
Simone showing our charming apartment

Market Crashes and Wedding Crashers

Submitted by mag on

Maggie's retirement home after the market crashMarina at the "Sailing Lake"After Donauworth the trail suddenly leaves the river and begins climbing steep hills. These are the kind of hills that even with fulll power and lowest gear, fully loaded you're lucky to crawl up at 10 km - but you can fly down as fast as you can stand! We were also concerned about the market which is in freefall so I was happy to find a potential retirement home alongside the trail.  

As a result of all this, we were pretty tired by the time we reached Newburg - and there we encountered one more steep climb up to the walled well-preserved town. This area is quaint and interesting, but pretty tricky for the bikes with steep hills and really bumpy slick cobbles.

 

We were happy to make it to our hotel at Landgsthof Vogelsang in Weichering, where there was a nice beer garden. There were two very large weddings going on which lasted from afternoon until quite late and meant that the staff was very preoccupied and over-taxed. Apparently none of them stayed overnight so we got the "Bridal Suite". One party was right outside our window with a boisterous band and we were treated to an (over-)abundance of "Ein Prosits". We had serious concerns about the evening but luckily that wedding party adjourned to dinner in the hall before nightfall. The other party had moved to the main beer garden, so we were stuck having a light dinner in the breakfast area. 

DonauRadWeg signs
DonauRadWeg signs
Getting Hilly
Getting Hilly
And hillier
And hillier
House in the hills near Marksheim
House in the hills near Marksheim
Back to the river dike
Back to the river dike
Marina at the "Sailing Lake"
Marina at the "Sailing Lake"
Maggie's retirement home after the market crash
Maggie's retirement home after the market crash
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Well-preserved Neuberg
Not so well-preserved
Not so well-preserved
Leaving Neuberg
Leaving Neuberg
Our balcony
Our Balcony
One too many Ein Prosits
One too many Ein Prosits
Crashed out in the Bridal Suite
Crashed out in the Bridal Suite

On to Donauworth - day of detours and dubious shortcuts with a perfect finish

Submitted by mag on

Happy diners at Cafe Raffeallo DonauworthEiscafe in HochstadtAfter our lavish frustuck we headed out, marveling at the wonderful trail and the elaborate signage system. We were happily following the signs, when a man in a car stopped and started gesturing and speaking rapid German. We explained for the hundredth time “Danke aber wer sprechen nur ein bisschen Deutsch” and continued on. A few minutes later he came back and with gestures told us we needed to go back and turn another way – sure enough when we went back we saw the Umleitung sign we had missed and started off on a dirt road through a cornfield. This worked out fine and soon enough we found ourselves in the pleasant town square of Hochstadt where we treated ourselves to a luscious Eiscafe.

After Hochstadt the signs and maps told us the way to Donauworth was along the left bank… but Google said the right bank was shorter… Jim enjoyed discussing the matter with the corn… big ears/no backtalk. After some debate Jim, Google and the corn won out The path looked OK at first but rapidly degraded until it climbed up a steep levy to a hunter blind where it petered out entirely. By this time we were committed as it was a long way back to the bridge, so continued on through the farmers’ fields for quite some time.

 

Eventually we did emerge on a road without mishap, although the bikes were seriously muddy. Shortly we encountered a bird watching tower that gave us a good view of the landscape. After that we continued on without problems for the rest of the day, all the way to the approach to Donauworth. At this point, Google again disagreed with the maps and signs. We followed the signs up a narrow dike trail to a dam river crossing, but then looking at the hotel address, we realized the hotel was on this side, and following the signs would entail 3 bridge crossings. So we had 3 choices – follow the signs and map, go back to the last point where Google said to turn, or take Google’s current directions (which did not show as any kind of path on the maps). I argued for going back, Jim for the current direction… everyone was worn out by this time, so we chose Google’s shortest route. This turned out to be a very long (at least 5 k) struggle across farmers’ fields with no path at all, sometimes just a seriously eroded gulch, other times just a field – too tired for fotos at this point. By the time we got to the hotel it was clear either of the other 2 choices would have been preferable… so Googie is not in the best graces.

The Hotel Donau Augsbergestr 6 in Donauworth seemed expensive for a smallish room with no amenities in a not-great location. It did however have an excellent bike garage, and at breakfast the next morning there were about a dozen cyclists who had shipped their bikes to the hotel, so it’s apparently a starting point for many tours, which might explain the high price. After sharing a quick beer from the vending machine, we pedaled across bridge #3, (which as it turned out was under construction, so no scary motor traffic), and up the cobbled main street of town shopping for the perfect dinner spot. It seems to be a rule that the Perfect Dinner Spot never appears on demand - we did the entire main street and plaza, then crossed a tiny ped-bridge onto an island, where after some exploring we did, amazingly, stumble on the Perfect Dinner Spot! Café Raffaello, a charming piazza right by the water and with a view of the town gate. In general, Italian food in Germany is not very good – over-sweet, over-salty, over-cooked, over-pasty. But this was Italian, by Italians… the entire staff was Italian and overtly proud of themselves and the restaurant. We had a veggie pizza and salad, and a bottle of the house red…. Every component was of the highest quality and perfectly prepared and presented. The entire bill came to $45 Euros - a best value for Europe. The waiter was thrilled that we asked for the bill in rough Italian and brought us a lagniappe of a small desert and a taste of Zambucca.

Donauradweg - great signage!
Donauradweg - great signage!
Donauradweg - great signage!
Donauradweg - great signage!
Limestone trail along the dike
Limestone trail along the dike
Eiscafe in Hochstadt
Eiscafe in Hochstadt
Hochstadt
Perfect audience - Big Ears/No Backtalk
The corn, Google and Jim agree on a route
The corn, Google and Jim agree on a route
The route deteriorates
The route deteriorates
And finaly peters out
And finally peters out
Onward through the fields
Onward through the fields
More fields
More fields
Another shortcut becomes the long way round
Another shortcut becomes the long way round
Finally a road!
Finally a road!
Birdwatching tower
Birdwatching tower
Rest stop at the Hemlocks
Rest stop at the Hemlocks
lady of the hemlocks
lady of the hemlocks
Sheep conference... where to now?
Sheep conference... where to now?
Dear Google... this is not a trail..
Dear Google... this is not a trail..
Google... this is not a trail...
Dear Google... this is not a trail..
Where shall we eat Onkel Ludwig?
Where shall we eat Onkel Ludwig?
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Perfect finish at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Happy diners at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Happy diners at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Happy diners at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth
Happy diners at Cafe Raffaello Donauworth

Ulm to Lauingen

Submitted by mag on

Orange Hotel UlmWell, it looks like we paid our dues to the weather gods - the weather has finally broken – no rain in the forecast and increasing temps a few degrees every day. We saddled up, bid farewell to Orange and set out down toward the river and across the bridge to the north side, where we picked up a beautiful section of the Donauradweg on a paved trail right along the river. This was about the last paved trail along the river we’ve seen – from there on it’s been mostly crushed limestone – some very smooth and some very rough.

Soon after we left Ulm it became obvious we were in Bayern - blue and white checks everywhere and people on the trail say Gruss Gott instead of Guten Tag.

 

Lunch in Gundelfingen at the Famllie Delle Landgasthof – which is famous for its angus beef (they are beef traders - would have loved to buy a nice steak to grill!) so we both had beef prepared in the German way and a nice salad bar (unusual!) for lunch.

Our first hotel was the Hotel Kastanienhof Bahnhofstrasse 4 in Lauingen. The room was fine. We walked all around the town in the evening – pretty town but not much going on and not especially friendly to Engish-speaking cyclists. We had a glass of wine in the hotel restaurant – not much happening there either. But the breakfast was outstanding! Best breakfast and best coffee we’ve had in Germany – the chef (charming and fluent in multiple languages) walked around pouring coffee and there was plenty with big cups. Delicious spiegeleir - getting a little tired of too-soft boiled eggs.  So I had to give the restaurant a good review just for the breakfast.

Saddling up at the Orange
Saddling up at the Orange
Orange Hotel Ulm
Farewell to Orange
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Beautiful paved trail along the Danube leaving Ulm
Rest stop at shelter
Rest stop at shelter
Typical limestone trail along the Donauradweg
Typical limestone trail - easy but slow
Danube trail
Jim has to explore the hunter blind
Bavaria
We are definitely in Bavaria now!
Kastanienhof Lauingen
Kastanienhof Lauingen
town hall in Lauingen
town hall in Lauingen
Donau bridge in Lauingen
Donau bridge in Lauingen
Kastanienhof Lauingen
Kastanienhof Lauingen

Orange Hotel - Ulm

Submitted by mag on

Dinner in OrangeWe were worried about where to leave the car for the 3 weeks we will be cycling the Danube. We think we hit on the perfect solution – the Orange Hotel in Neu-Ulm. The Orange Hotel is one of those hotels we call “Human Filing Cabinets” that the French are so good at. And we actually think this might be French although we aren’t positive – but the restaurant is named “Viva Bavaria” and the croissants are French quality (for a change) so that’s a couple of hints. Anyhow it’s a rather charmless hotel in a charmless area but very reasonable and convenient, great food, and they said we could leave our vehicle in the courtyard area, no problem. So (assuming of course no problems with the car while we are away) it appears to be the perfect solution.

We immediately rode into town, saw the famous cathedral. The Ulm Cathedral tower is the tallest in the world - we climbed the 700-odd steps in 1980 so we didn’t think we had to do it again. Then we found a fabulous bookstore right near the tower, which had the Bikeline Danube Bike Trail guide in English! and a nice foldout map so that solved the second of our concerns. We had a nice dinner with pils near the cathedral to celebrate.

On the 19th we intended to explore Ulm, but it was a dismal day with cold rain (yes, it followed us), so we were content to remain in our filing cabinet drawer, sorting, organizing and filing for the ride to Vienna, and enjoying a quiet dinner in the Viva Bavaria dining room.

Orange Hotel, Neu-Ulm
Orange Filing Cabinet, Neu-Ulm
Orange Filing Cabinet, Neu-Ulm
Orange Filing Cabinet, Neu-Ulm
Ulm Cathedral
Ulm Cathedral
Ulm Cathedral
Ulm Cathedral
Dinner near the cathedral
Dinner near the cathedral
Dinner in Orange
Dinner in Orange

Trier, Wintrich, and the Triker Fest

Submitted by mag on

Jim computing (no connection)On Friday we drove into Trier to get the tire replaced… the first place Sixt sent us didn’t have the right brand but they sent us someplace else and we finally got it done. Then we went into Trier and spent the day exploring Roman ruins like the Imperial Baths and Porta Nigra. Friday night nearly everyplace was booked so we got stuck in a tiny, overpriced room in Mehring. After the heatwave, the weather turned really bad with rain forecast for a few days all over Germany. We considered changing our plans entirely and heading down to France where the weather is much nicer, but in the end decided to stick with Plan A which is to finish up the Mosel and then head for the Danube.

We want to complete the entire Mosel in both directions from Koblenz to Trier – 2 years ago we got as far as Bernkastle-Kues before turning back to meet our friends so this time we will complete the rest of the way to Trier. We also needed some planning, rest and blogging time so we booked 3 days at the Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich which is an apartment built up the attic of a big house. It turned out to be an eccentric but huge apartment up a 2 story circular stairway in a tower, built in several connected buildings so a veritable warren of rooms with massive beams and with steps up and down between, and even a sleeping loft for kids. Jim is forever asking me “where’s the bedroom again?”…. Loaded with character and comfort and perfect in every way – except no internet connection! The workaround is to sit down the block on a bench and tie into the local tourist office network… we call it the “Internet Outpost”. Which would be OK if it wasn’t cold and pouring rain! Oh well, all part of the adventure.

Saturday we explored Bernkastle-Kues by bike and by tasting local wines at a small wine-fest on the Kues side. Once back in Wintrich, we found there was a massive “Triker” Event going on… These 3-wheeled motorbikes are HUGE – big enough to pull camping trailers! There is a huge cult following in Germany and most of them converged on the tiny town of Wintrich for a rally. Sunday as predicted was a nonstop cold rain… the trikers’ campground must have become a sodden mudbog - we saw them filing past with their rigs looking drenched and disgruntled.

We are figuring out ways to make do with the lack of wifi – doing what we can offline, and then heading down to our soggy Internet Outpost to connect to the tourist office wifi to post and work online for short periods. Then we drag our soggy chilled bodies back inside to be fortified with tea and Jack (the last in our flask)! It’s hard to believe it was 97 degrees 2 days ago! Now it's in the 50s.  I read on Facebook “If you love someone, let them nap!” I must love Jim a lot, because he is doing a lot of napping today. It’s Sunday and all the local eating and drinking spots are closed. Luckily we had apples, cheese and some ontbijtkoek and cranen koeken left over from Holland. No idea what those last 2 are, but I put them all together and it came out pretty good! At least after a few glasses of wine, which is (also luckily) plentiful, cheap and delicious on the Mosel, and we keep a modest supply stored in our Caddy. All part of the adventure. I seem to be saying that a lot lately!

Tomorrow is supposed to be better, so we can complete the one part of Mosel left to do. Then Tuesday we hit the road for Ulm to begin our Danube Adventure.

Liebfrau Kerk in Trier
Liebfrau Kerk in Trier
Liebfrau Kerk in Trier
Liebfrau Kerk in Trier
Roman Imperial Baths in Trier
Roman Imperial Baths in Trier
Roman Porta Nigra in Trier
Roman Porta Nigra in Trier
German Autobahn work in progress
German Autobahn work in progress
German Autobahn work in progress
German Autobahn work in progress
Lunch at our favorite restaurant by the campground in Wolf
Lunch at our favorite restaurant by the campground in Wolf
Favorite wine at our favorite restaurant by the campground in Wolf
Favorite wine at our favorite restaurant by the campground in Wolf
Burg at Bernkastle
Burg at Bernkastle
Burg at Bernkastle
Burg at Bernkastle
Lunch in Bernkastle
Lunch in Bernkastle
Crossing the Bridge to Kues
Crossing the Bridge to Kues
Wine street festival in Kues
Wine street festival in Kues
Wine street festival in Kues
Wine street festival in Kues
Maybe next year we'll go by boat
Maybe next year we'll go by boat
Eccentric entry to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Eccentric entry to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Stairway to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Stairway to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Stairway to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Stairway to Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Living room in Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Living room in Flämisches Weinhaus in Wintrich
Jim computing (no connection)
Jim computing (no connection)
Jim computing (no connection)
Jim computing (no connection)
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker Fest Wintrich Saturday night
Triker-bikers - not the spandex crowd
Triker-bikers - not the spandex crowd
Disgruntled blogger in the rain on Sunday
Disgruntled blogger in the rain on Sunday
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Disgruntled trikers leaving town in the rain
Slim pickens with al stores closed on Sunday
Slim pickens with al stores closed on Sunday
Sad to leave the beautiful Mosel
Sad to leave the beautiful Mosel
Sad to leave the beautiful Mosel
Sad to leave the beautiful Mosel
Ready to roll - on to the Danube
Ready to roll - on to the Danube

On the Beautiful Mosel River

Submitted by mag on

Breakfast at Klosterschenke near TrierWe had a long, but thankfully uneventful, drive down to the Mosel. Once there we took a slight detour down to the Traban-Trarbach/Wolf area, hoping to get set up with a camping cabin where we could stay and leave the car. The “wine barrel cabins” were booked solid and our reservation wasn’t recorded (because we couldn’t do a bank transfer from the US to hold it) so that was a disappointment.

We had lunch in Wolf, then headed back upstream – this is the first time we actually drove a vehicle on the Mosel… the towns have narrow roads with lots to traffic calming devices. Nearly all the curbs are pretty low and gentle with 45 degree or less angle, but occasionally they will suddenly with no warning switch to wicked high vertical curbs! One of those nasty traps reached out and snagged us – causing a huge and very loud blowout! This was not good… we called the Sixt rental emergency line, but they were is Holland and they were extremely unhelpful. It was about 90 degrees and of course all the tools were unfamiliar, but somehow Jim managed to get the spare off and replace the tire…. By that time were were both drenched in sweat and not too happy by the time Sixt finally responded but by then there was nothing they could do but tell us where to go to get the tire replaced.

Eventually we made it to our reserved place at the “Ferienmanufaktur” (holiday maker) apartment in the town of Pfalzel just downstream from Trier. This turned out to be a great find in spite of its somewhat dubious name and online photo. It is associated with the beautiful Klostershenke hotel which is an ancient cloister that has a spectacular site right on the Bastian wall and with a large shaded terrace on the Mosel. Those monks really knew how to live! The apartment is in the old village just a few blocks away. We had 2 days booked and tried to extend our stay or get a room in the hotel but they were all booked up for the weekend. But we made the most of our time there, with evening drinks and a lavish breakfast on the terrace. Our apartment was a renovated farmhouse with interior courtyard… in the basement (really a cellar) there was a washer and dryer so we were able to do laundry.

Thursday August 13 was our first full day riding the Mosel and Europe was experiencing a heat wave, with temps above 97 degrees where we were. Being from FL, we never let the heat slow us down – we set off cycling downstream. The trail around Trier is extremely choppy and not very pleasant, passing through mile after mile of industrial and shipping yards. But once about 10 km out the trail became more pleasant passing through steep hillside vineyards, but still a lot of it was right along the main highway. By the time we got to Mehring we were pretty-well fried and not in a sunny-side-up kind of way. But a nice lunch got us back on track and we returned on the other (South) side of the river – which was much more pleasant until we got to the high bridge crossing the river to head back to our apartment. I do not like extremely high highway bridges with narrow bike lanes and lots of traffic, so I don’t recommend the bridge that crosses at Schweich – much better to cross downstream around Longuich.

Vineyards on the beautiful Mosel River
Vineyards on the beautiful Mosel River
Vineyards on the beautiful Mosel River
Vineyards on the beautiful Mosel River
Ferienmanufaktur apartment in Pfalzel near Trier
Ferienmanufaktur apartment in Pfalzel near Trier
Klosterschenke  in Pfalzel near Trier
Klosterschenke in Pfalzel near Trier
Klosterschenke  in Pfalzel near Trier
Klosterschenke in Pfalzel near Trier
Breakfast at Klosterschenke near Trier
Breakfast at Klosterschenke near Trier
Breakfast at Klosterschenke near Trier
Breakfast at Klosterschenke near Trier

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