After all the time spent on the massive immense waters of the Daunbe, the upper Danube was quite a switch! Near the headwaters it's just a small creek and in fact at one point it dives underground and disappears!.
We drove from Munich to Sigmaringen near the source of the Danube. On the way we stopped at Riedingen, hoping for a nice lunch but although there were a few restaurants open, no one was serving anything resembling food. A pretty town but not especially friendly. We stopped at the famous “hanging gardens” which had a nice view but the gardens had pretty much gone to seed. Our hotel in Sigmaringen was the Pfefferle, where we got a nice little ferienwonung (apartment).
From Sigmaringen we took a train to Geissingen to start our journey down the Upper Donau. We left most of our stuff in the car at the train station. After the standard “second breakfast” in Geissingen, we set off. We are really glad we didn’t miss this part of the Danube. Although the river itself isn’t much and actually completely dives underground at some points, the scenery, towns and castles are truly spectacular.
Leaving Geissingen the trail was well marked and maintained, but after only a few km we encountered our first Umleitung, which then took off straight up a mountain… we decided to take an obvious shortcut closer to the river valley, which soon deteriorated so we found ourselves in yet another cow pasture… we should count up the mileage we’re forged on through muddy cow pastures on this trip!
Just past Immendingen we encountered the Versickerung,